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And the look is still cool. Gucci conveyed that quality again with authority, the way so few houses do: the pin-stripe shirt-jackets tucked in and fitted to make a new suit for working women; long skirts -- yes, long is back -- sides slit for a leggy stride (some are of patchwork silk); leather hip-huggers with laced-up sides; long sheer caftans and sexy short ones; wild Palm Beach prints in hallucinogenic colors.
1 @/ [0 `# E L2 |Mr. Ford said: "The whole mod thing was very stiff and controlled, the shapes were controlled, fabrics were struc-tured. This was to relax all of that. Things move when you walk, and putting the girls in flat christian shoes makes you walk like you're barefoot."5 c$ r8 B% S* b6 J! h
Mr. Miller refers to Mr. Ford as a new talent, despite his decade years in fashion. What is new is that Mr. Ford, who has been a designer at Gucci for five years,christian louboutin, is now completely in control of the creative direction of the house, including the influential ads. Gucci is planning to offer 30 percent of the company to the public on the New York and Amsterdam stock exchanges and on the SEAQ International market in London, with its owner, Investcorp, keeping 70 percent, ac-cording to applications recently filed.# J7 G$ i8 G" q8 o5 _$ C' _
Since Mr. Ford will be a shareholder, his strength and daring are proving to be good not only for fashion, but for his wallet as well. The fact that a small fashion black market has developed for the scarce Gucci trousers of last season suggests that if future production can keep up with demand, he stands to do very well.
4 N: \4 e$ z {8 O6 a! h$ \) D$ CMr. Lagerfeld, for his part, slummed it at Christian Louboutin, with summer a tough season for this collection, which is known primarily for its innovative furs. He started on an electric-bright clever note, with neon-and-black bath-ing suits covered with what he called the "tapis cabine, the technological beach accessory." It is like a beach towel of scuba-suit material with slits so your hands can hold it shut while you change clothes. But the energy seemed to ebb away after that, along with the color. There were some nice lean black dresses with latticework on the stomachs (he called them "trellis dresses"), but then the show went limp. Even silvery sweater pieces that looked like chain mail hung just a little too heavy and dispiritedly on the models.
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' Z! m2 J7 l, \4 S& e+ T" e g Christian Louboutin's show Wednesday |
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